If the swing arm pivot was exactly in line with the drive sprocket the adjustment would stay the same. Your chain adjustment changes as the swing arm bounces up and down. I like to keep the rear chain a little on the loose side. Plus, on the old Pans and Flatheads you could pop the derby cover off the primary and adjust the clutch springs in about 2 minutes. On a Sportster the kick start drives through the clutch basket, not through the clutch plates, so when you kick the engine over you are not even using the clutch. So you didn't have to put the whole thing together and drive it only to find out that the clutch slipped. On those bikes the kick start drove through the clutch, if a clutch didn't slip while you were kicking, generally it would hold while you were driving. The Sportster clutch sucks when compared to old Flathead clutches or old Panhead clutches for a couple of reasons. Oh course you won't find that out until everything is back together and you've driven the bike. If your washers are too thick, the clutch will slip. Pull the primary off and get the longer spacers (different length spacers used to be available, you may be able to find them) or put a washer on each stud. If you still can't roll the bike freely while it is in gear after re-doing the adjustment your spring spacers are too short or your springs are adjusted too tight (on those clutches that don't use the spacers). If you can't roll the bike without feeling the clutch drag, repeat the adjustment process. You should be able to put the bike in gear, pull in the clutch and roll the bike back and forth, it should roll freely. Tighten the jamb nut on the adjuster screw and you are done.
Sportster chopper build free#
Second part is the free play adjustment, back out the clutch adjuster on the primary until it is completely loose, now turn it in until there is just a slight amount of free play at the clutch lever. The cable is adjusted, don't fuck with it any more. Now, tighten the cable adjuster jamb nut.
You want the cable to be just barely loaded. Now use the cable adjuster and take all the slack out of the cable, leave just a gnat's ass of free play in the cable. Back the cable adjuster out just about all the way, screw the adjuster on the primary cover in all the way, this fully releases the clutch. Clutch adjustment is a two step process, first you adjust the cable. Over the last couple of days I've started taking care of a bunch of little stuff, like chain adjustment, tightening the rear wheel axle, brake adjustment, clutch adjustment etc.
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